There are few things more disheartening at the end of a long day than opening the dishwasher, expecting sparkling plates, and finding a murky pool of grey water sitting in the bottom. It's a common call-out for me across Bournemouth, Poole and Christchurch — and the good news is that a fair number of these jobs turn out to be fixable in ten minutes by the homeowner. Before you book me in, there are several simple checks worth running through. You might just save yourself a service visit.
I'm Alex, the local engineer at Go Assist Bournemouth Local Repairs. I've spent years pulling apart dishwashers from Westbourne to Southbourne, and the same handful of issues come up again and again. This guide walks you through them in the order I'd check them myself, with a few tips on when it's genuinely time to pick up the phone. Repairs from £69 if you do need a hand.
Start With the Obvious: Filter and Sump Area
Nine times out of ten, when a dishwasher refuses to drain properly, the culprit is a blocked filter. Modern dishwashers — whether you've got a Bosch, Beko, Hotpoint or Miele — all rely on a fine mesh filter sitting in the base of the machine to catch food debris before it reaches the pump. Over months of use, that filter clogs up with grease, label paper from jars, fruit pips, rice grains, and the occasional piece of cutlery that slipped through. If the water can't get past the filter, it can't get to the pump, and it certainly can't drain.
How to Clean the Filter Properly
Pull out the bottom rack and you'll see the filter assembly in the sump — usually a cylindrical mesh part you twist anti-clockwise to remove. There's often a coarse filter sitting underneath it too. Take both out, rinse them under a hot tap, and use an old toothbrush with a drop of washing-up liquid to scrub between the mesh holes. Don't be gentle — grease bakes onto these surfaces and needs a proper going-over.
While the filters are out, have a look at the sump itself (the well at the bottom of the machine). Shine a torch in there. I've found earring backs, olive stones, bits of broken glass, and on one memorable Boscombe job, a child's plastic dinosaur. Anything sitting in the sump can block the drain impeller. Use a paper towel or a wet/dry vacuum to soak up the standing water first, then fish out anything you can see.
How Often Should You Be Doing This?
For a family of four running the dishwasher daily, I'd say clean the filter properly every two to three weeks. If you tend to put plates in without scraping them first, make it weekly. A blocked filter not only causes drainage issues but also leaves your glasses cloudy and your plates with a gritty residue — so it's worth getting into the habit regardless.
If you're someone who'd rather not be peering into the sump every fortnight, this is exactly the kind of thing our Premium Home Membership covers — annual servicing, priority call-outs, and a proper deep clean by an engineer who knows what they're looking at.
Check the Drain Hose and Connection Under the Sink
Once the filter is spotless and the sump is clear, the next stop is the drain hose. This is the corrugated pipe that carries waste water from the dishwasher to your kitchen waste pipe. It's a common pinch point for blockages, and it's also where DIY-fitted kitchens sometimes go wrong.
Kinks and Crushes
The drain hose runs from the back of the dishwasher, usually up into the cabinet next to it, then down to a connection under the sink. When kitchens get installed — or when someone shoves a heavy pan into the cupboard next door — the hose can get crushed or kinked. Pull the dishwasher out a few inches (carefully, the hoses are short) and trace the line. Any sharp bends or compressed sections need straightening out. A kinked hose is the second most common drainage cause I see across Bournemouth, after blocked filters.
The High Loop and the Sink U-Bend
Most installations require the drain hose to form a high loop — rising up to the underside of the worktop before dropping back down to the waste connection. This stops dirty sink water siphoning back into the dishwasher. If the loop isn't there, or if it's collapsed, you can get drainage problems. Check it's still tied up against the underside of the cabinet.
Then look at the spigot on your sink waste — the small plastic stub the dishwasher hose pushes onto. When a new kitchen is plumbed in, sometimes the blanking cap inside that spigot doesn't get knocked out. I've been called to several jobs in Christchurch and Ferndown where the dishwasher had never properly drained from day one, and the cause was a forgotten blanking plug. If you've recently had a new sink or dishwasher fitted, this is worth investigating.
Hose Blockages
If the hose looks straight and the spigot is clear, the hose itself may be partially blocked with grease and gunk. Disconnect it at both ends (have a bowl ready — there will be water), flush it through with hot water from the tap, and reconnect. A flexible bottle brush is handy here. You'd be surprised how much gunge comes out of a five-year-old hose.
Investigate the Pump, Motor and Common Error Codes
If the filter is clean, the hose is clear, and the standing water is still there after a fresh cycle, we're moving into territory where you may need an engineer. But there are still a few diagnostic steps you can take before you call.
Listen to the Machine
Start a drain-only cycle (most dishwashers have a cancel or drain button — check your manual). Stand close to the machine and listen carefully. You're listening for the drain pump. It should make a steady humming or whirring sound for around 30 to 90 seconds.
- No sound at all? The pump may have failed, or there's a wiring or control board issue.
- A loud buzzing or grinding noise? Something's likely jammed in the impeller — glass shards, fruit stones, bits of label.
- A normal humming but no water moving? Either there's a deeper blockage or the impeller itself is broken.
For the buzzing scenario, switch the machine off at the wall and have another look in the sump. Sometimes you can see the obstruction; sometimes the impeller cover needs removing, which is generally where I'd take over.
Common Error Codes by Brand
If your dishwasher has a display, an error code is gold dust for diagnosis. A few common ones:
- Bosch / Neff / Siemens: E24, E25 — drainage fault. Almost always filter, hose, or pump.
- Beko: Flashing end-of-cycle light or beeping — often drainage related.
- Hotpoint / Indesit: A3, F08 — drain pump or pressure switch issue.
- Miele: F11 or F12 — drainage failure, sometimes the pump's non-return valve.
Make a note of any code before you call. It tells me what to bring, which saves us both time. We cover most major makes — you can see the full list on our dishwasher repairs page.
The Non-Return Valve and Check Ball
Inside the pump housing, most dishwashers have a small rubber flap or ball that stops drained water flowing back in. If this gets jammed open by debris, water siphons back from the sink. If it sticks closed, the pump can't push water out. Accessing it usually means removing the lower spray arm, the filter assembly, and the pump cover — fiddly but not impossible. If you're confident with a screwdriver and the manual is to hand, it's a job some homeowners tackle. If not, that's what I'm for.
When to Stop and Call an Engineer
There's a point where DIY troubleshooting tips over into risking a bigger bill. Knowing where that line sits is half the battle.
Signs It's Time to Call
Stop and book a repair if any of the following apply:
- You've cleaned the filter, checked the hose, cleared the sump — and water still won't drain.
- The machine is leaking water onto the kitchen floor (this can damage cabinets and flooring fast).
- You can smell burning, hot plastic, or electrical fumes.
- There's a tripped fuse or RCD every time you start a cycle.
- Error codes persist after a reset.
- The machine is making grinding or screeching noises mid-cycle.
Electrical components, pumps and control boards aren't safe DIY territory unless you really know what you're doing. Water and electricity together demand respect, and a botched repair can turn a £100 fix into a £400 one — or worse, a new dishwasher.
What to Expect From a Visit
When I come out, repairs start from £69 for straightforward jobs. I'll diagnose the issue, talk you through it, give you a fixed price before I do any work, and aim to fix the machine in the one visit wherever possible. I carry common pump assemblies, hoses, filters and non-return valves on the van for the brands we see most often in the Bournemouth area — Bosch, Beko, Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Indesit, Hoover and Candy.
If you're a Premium Home Membership customer, repairs come with a 1-year guarantee for Premium Members, priority booking, and annual servicing built in. It's worth a look if you've got a household full of appliances and you're tired of paying out every time something goes wrong — see the details on our guarantee page and the Premium Home Membership page.
Booking and Coverage
I cover the whole BH postcode area — Bournemouth town centre, Boscombe, Southbourne, Pokesdown, Winton, Charminster, Westbourne, Poole, Parkstone, Sandbanks, Christchurch, Highcliffe, Ferndown, Wimborne, Verwood and the villages in between. You can see the full area list on our Bournemouth coverage page. Most days I can be with you within 24 hours, often the same day if you call before lunch.
One Final Tip
Before I sign off — once you've fixed the drainage problem and your dishwasher is back in action, run an empty hot cycle with a proper dishwasher cleaner (the descaling/degreasing kind, not just a tab). It clears out the bits you can't reach and gives the pump and hoses a thorough flush. Do this once a month and you'll head off most drainage problems before they start. It's the cheapest insurance going.
Hopefully this saves you a call-out. But if you've worked through the checks and your dishwasher is still sulking, give us a ring — I'll be over to sort it. You can also check our prices page for guideline costs on common dishwasher faults before you book.